Lighthouse Seafarms is located in an unlikely location. Deep in the heart of South East Asia, it rests among warm waters and some of the worlds busiest shipping lanes in the northeast corner of Singapore. It aims to deliver truly fresh, live, Pacific (Gigas) oysters to an increasingly selective Singaporean culinary scene. And it claims to deliver these oysters within 24 hours of harvest, just after UV depuration. This gives them a competitive advantage over the more likely oyster growing regions of North America, Australia and elsewhere.
To say that they have no challenges at Lighthouse would be untrue. Other than the obvious issue of high water temperature, monsoon rainfall and rapid salinity changes can cause occasional harvest closures. Consistent supply has therefore been a problem. This has forced the farmers of Lighthouse to improvise, often using MacGuyver-like tactics and clever innovation to overcome their natural hurdles. During my last trip to Singapore, one of the owners, Kevin Parnell, an Ex-Pat now living in Singapore, swore me to secrecy in describing the trade secrets they have employed. It is very cloak-and-dagger stuff this oyster farming. Let’s just say that I have seen similar levels of functional innovation on every oyster farm I have visited and no one wants to give away the “secrets”. And it is these secrets that keep farms producing safe and delicious oysters for half shell fanatics worldwide.
In talking to local chefs, I got the sense that the people of Singapore are willing to give their native oysters’ a chance, despite some levels of suspicion. A few complained about shelf life, possibly related to higher than average growth temperatures. Some didn’t like the size of the oysters which tend to be on the smaller side. Others were simply nervous to try them for fear of illness. However, just as many people and chefs demonstrated a willingness to give Lighthouse a shot. Knowing the strict standards of the Singapore Agri-Veterinary Association (AVA), the agency tasked with food safety in Singapore, I for one am willing to slurp away.
Finally, what of the warm water that we brushed past earlier on? Although most oyster farms are located in colder water, this same tropical water is also home to a rich assortment of nutrients and food that cause the Lighthouse oysters to thrive. The oysters don't seem to notice their warm surroundings and the owners claim that this is the secret to their success and the reason for the great flavor of Lighthouse oysters. Ultimately it boils down to flavor; and these oysters taste great.
If you visit Singapore, try one of the many good raw bars around the city and you may wind up eating a truly unique morsel, the rare and exotic Singaporean farmed oyster.
For more information on Lighthouse Seafarms and Sustainable oyster farming in Singapore visit:
http://www.lighthouseseafarms.com/
Thursday, November 5, 2009
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