An Oyster Farm In Singapore??

Lighthouse Seafarms is located in an unlikely location. Deep in the heart of South East Asia, it rests among warm waters and some of the worlds busiest shipping lanes in the northeast corner of Singapore. It aims to deliver truly fresh, live, Pacific (Gigas) oysters to an increasingly selective Singaporean culinary scene. And it claims to deliver these oysters within 24 hours of harvest, just after UV depuration. This gives them a competitive advantage over the more likely oyster growing regions of North America, Australia and elsewhere.

To say that they have no challenges at Lighthouse would be untrue. Other than the obvious issue of high water temperature, monsoon rainfall and rapid salinity changes can cause occasional harvest closures. Consistent supply has therefore been a problem. This has forced the farmers of Lighthouse to improvise, often using MacGuyver-like tactics and clever innovation to overcome their natural hurdles. During my last trip to Singapore, one of the owners, Kevin Parnell, an Ex-Pat now living in Singapore, swore me to secrecy in describing the trade secrets they have employed. It is very cloak-and-dagger stuff this oyster farming. Let’s just say that I have seen similar levels of functional innovation on every oyster farm I have visited and no one wants to give away the “secrets”. And it is these secrets that keep farms producing safe and delicious oysters for half shell fanatics worldwide.

In talking to local chefs, I got the sense that the people of Singapore are willing to give their native oysters’ a chance, despite some levels of suspicion. A few complained about shelf life, possibly related to higher than average growth temperatures. Some didn’t like the size of the oysters which tend to be on the smaller side. Others were simply nervous to try them for fear of illness. However, just as many people and chefs demonstrated a willingness to give Lighthouse a shot. Knowing the strict standards of the Singapore Agri-Veterinary Association (AVA), the agency tasked with food safety in Singapore, I for one am willing to slurp away.

Finally, what of the warm water that we brushed past earlier on? Although most oyster farms are located in colder water, this same tropical water is also home to a rich assortment of nutrients and food that cause the Lighthouse oysters to thrive. The oysters don't seem to notice their warm surroundings and the owners claim that this is the secret to their success and the reason for the great flavor of Lighthouse oysters. Ultimately it boils down to flavor; and these oysters taste great.

If you visit Singapore, try one of the many good raw bars around the city and you may wind up eating a truly unique morsel, the rare and exotic Singaporean farmed oyster.

For more information on Lighthouse Seafarms and Sustainable oyster farming in Singapore visit:
http://www.lighthouseseafarms.com/

Sablefish; A Sustainable Masterpiece of Canadian Fisheries

Sustainability. I would not be the first person to tackle this topic in recent times. And so I will not, exactly. Instead, I am going to focus on a fish that guiltlessly replaces the Chilean Seabass as a commercially viable, environmentally conscious and highly sustainable fish, that tastes as if it should be criminal to consume. It is called Sablefish and I almost feel guilty eating it.

As a chef and a seafood professional, my biggest issue with seafood choices such as Tilapia and Pangasius are that they don't seem to justify a high ticket price or a place on a white table cloth menu. Both are fine to eat and assuming that you trust the provenance of the catch you are eating, are quality seafood options. However, they are simply put, boring.

When I bite into a piece of fish at a fine restaurant, I want to be as impressed as if I am biting into a piece of Prime Hanger Steak or a Kuraboto pork chop. And I seldom find this to be the case, unless I choose to eat "avoid" species such as Grouper and Chilean Seabass which I have sworn off.

Enter the Sablefish, or Anoplopoma fimbria. Long sought after in Japan, Black Cod or Sablefish(Canada) is a member of the Cod family and is harvested, generally by traps in the Pacific Ocean ranging from British Columbia to Alaska to Japan. This fishing method reduces by catch to almost 0% and causes very little environmental damage.

According to Mark Baggio, of the Canadian Sablefish Association, the Canadian fleet generally produces J-Cut, or head off and collar off, Frozen at Sea (FAS) fish of between 4-7 pounds. The techniques they employ in this relatively small fishery (about 2500 metric tons per year) ensure a viable healthy commercial fishery for the foreseeable future. Marine Stewardship Counsel gives both Alaskan and Canadian Sablefish a “best choice” rating.

As a very delicate protein, Sablefish is most consistent when rapidly and deeply frozen at sea within minutes of being caught. The entire Canadian Fleet utilizes this method of quality preparation. After a good thaw in the refrigerator, the fillets will more readily come off the bone. A simple salt brine will firm up the meat for easier preparation.

Although the pearl like color and thick meaty flakes are a seafood lovers dream, one of the finest qualities of the Sablefish is its incredibly high oil content and silky delicious flavor. Due to the depth and slow rate at which it grows, the Sablefish develops very high Omega 3 oil levels similar to Wild Salmon. I was able to easily sauté this fish with no oil on a hot pan. It produced enough oil that I had to wipe my pan between each portion. And the flavor and texture is absolutely flawless with none of the potentially “fishy” qualities that can scare consumers.

Best if baked or smoked, Sablefish will quickly convert even the pickiest chef. And most importantly, despite my suspicious instincts, it is a choice I can feel good about.